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Helmut Newton

Motto: "Some young model complained: But, Helmut, that's not me. I said: my dear, I'm not interested in you. You're getting paid to be made into what I want."

 


Helmut Neustaedter s-a nascut la Berlin, 1920, intr-o familie instarita, care detinea o fabrica de nasturi.


A devenit interesat de fotografie la 12 ani, cand si-a cumparat prima sa camera fotografica. Se inscrie in Clubul de Inot din Berlin, iar fetele desirate, costumele de baie si piscinele vor reveni frecvent in opera sa de maturitate.


A studiat la Heinrich von Treitschke Realgymnasium si la American School in Berlin.


La doar 16 ani, in 1936, se angajeaza asistent la fotograful Yva (Elsie Neulander Simon), visind sa devina cameraman.


In 1935 nazistii rechizitioneaza fabrica tatalui sau.


Newton este arestat in 9 noiembrie 1938 (Noaptea de Cristal) si petrece cateva zile intr-un lagar de concentrare. Cresterea opresiunii anti-evreiesti din Germania determina toata familia sa sa emigreze. Parintii sai pleaca spre Africa de Sud, Helmut Newton spre China (singura locatie cu locuri libere), dar se opreste in Singapore, unde isi gaseste de lucru, la inceput pentru Singapore Straits Times (de unde este dat afara dupa doua saptamani pentru "incompetenta profesionala"), apoi ca fotograf portretist.


In 1940 ajunge in Australia si petrece doi ani intr-o tabara de straini.


In 1942 se inroleaza in Armata australiana timp de doi ani.


In 1945 publica prima sa fotografie de coperta, in Australian Post din Melbourne.


In 1946 primeste cetatenie australiana si isi schimba numele in Newton.


In 1947 o cunoaste pe June Brunell, actrita, care-i serveste ca fotomodel.


In 1948 se casatoreste cu June, avertizind-o: "Fotografia va fi intotdeauna prima mea dragoste, tu, a doua!"


In 1950 expune fotografii la Universitatea din Meblourne.


In 1956 calatoreste mult in Europa. Incepe sa lucreze pentru Vogue Australia. Este trimis in Marea Britanie, sa lucreze pentru Vogue UK, de unde isi da demisia dupa 11 luni, datorita unor controverse cu editoarea revistei, Lady Rendlesham. Petrece o vreme in Paris si, in 1957 se intoarce la Vogue Australia, La Melbourne.


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Helmut Newton


In 1961 se angajeaza fotograf la Vogue France si se muta la Paris. Colaboreaza ocazional cu Vogue UK si Queen.


In 1964 este demis de la Vogue France, pentru ca publicase fotografii in revista concurenta Queen. In acelasi an cumpara o cabana in Ramatuelle, langa St. Tropez, unde Helmut si June petrec multe vacante.


In perioada 1964 - 1966 este editorialist la Elle France.


Helmut_Newton_6.jpg


In 1966 revine la Vogue France, sub noua conducere a revistei, preluata acum de Francine Crescent.


In 1970 sotia sa, June, incepe sa fotografieze si sa publice sub pseudonimul Alice Springs. Cand Helmut era bolnav, June trece la camera si fotografiaza in locul sau, de exemplu o reclama pentru tigarete.


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Helmut Newton


In 1975 Newton sufera un atac de cord si este spitalizat la New York.


In 1975 este vernisata prima sa expozitie de autor, la Galeriile Nikon din Paris.


In 1976 publica primul sau album de fotografii: "White Women". Pentru a caracteriza acest album, criticii au inventat cuvantul "porno chic".


In 1981 familia Newton se muta la Monaco.


In 1990 este decorat cu "Grand prix national de la photographie."


In 1992 este declarat "Officier des Arts, Lettres et Sciences" in Monaco. In acelasi an: Das Grosse Verdienstkreuz in R.F.G.


In 1996 primeste titlul "Commandeur de l'Ordre des Arts et Lettres" de la Ministerul Culturii din Franta.


In 2000, cu ocazia aniversarii a 80 de ani de la nastere organizeaza o mare retrospectiva la Neue Nationalgalerie, in Berlin, retrospectiva care este itinerata la Londra, New York, Tokyo, Moscova, Praga si alte capitale.


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Autoportret cu nud


In 2003 se pun bazele Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin impreuna cu Fundatia Culturala a Prusiei (Stiftung Preusischer Kulturbesitz).


La 23 ianuarie 2004 Helmut Newton moare la Los Angeles, in urma unui accident rutier.

 


* * *

 


Helmut Newton avea o personalitate complexa. Boem dar pragmatic, fara pregatire academica, pe care deseori o lua in ras, ironic, deseori chiar sardonic, el considera ca tehnica fotografica este neimportanta, totul este "in cap". Autorul a declarat in numeroase randuri: "Nimic nu a fost retusat, nimic nu a fost prelucrat electronic. Am fotografiat ce am vazut." Sursele sale de educatie artistica au fost avantgarda berlineza din perioada interbelica, film noir, cinematografia expresionista, sado-masochismul si suprarealismul.


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Coperta albumului "White women"


Newton fotografia cu camere de format mediu si mare. Folosea foarte putine, desori o singura sursa de lumina, dar fotografia frecvent doar la lumina venita pe fereastra, sau in exterior, in lumina naturala, in lumina de seara sau, noaptea, la lumina stradala. Renunta la decorurile elaborate, cu frunze uscate, pereti falsi, copaci artificiali, frecvent folositi in fotografia de moda din epoca sa, si prefera hoteluri de la inceputul secolului, camere goale, abandonate, dormitoare luxoase, strazi si chiar cadre in natura. Ca accesorii utiliza o gama extinsa, inclusiv obiecte S&M, sei de cal, dispozitive prostetice, etc.


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Coperta albumului "Helmut Newton" Ed. Taschen


Cu fotografiile sale, Helmut Newton a revolutionat fotografia de moda si imaginea femeii in presa scrisa. Daca pana atunci femeia aparea in fotografii ca o fiinta eterica, fragila si obedienta, in imaginile lui Newton razbate revolutia sexuala a anilor 60-70, marcind o epoca, aducandu-i autorului o avere, creând numeroase controverse, realizind un adevart val de plagiatori si inspirind o multime de fotografi tineri. In fotografiile sale, femeile apar puternice, independente, ca niste conducatoare, nu ca niste supuse.


Helmut_Newton_1.jpg

Coperta albumului "Us and Them"


Spre deosebire de multi dintre colegii sai, Newton lucra cu fotomodele mai putin cunoscute: "Eu nu caut corpul perfect, orice ar insemna asta, pentru ca il gasesc plictisitor". Totusi, majoritatea personajelor sale sunt femei inalte, blonde si frumoase, pline de incredere in sine dar cumva crude; chiar si nud, desi senzuale, ele inspira respect si uneori teama.


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Helmut Newtons's Illustrated 1- 4


Atat in viata domestica cat si in cea artistica, June, sotia sa, a fost nu doar fotograf, dar si confesor, sursa de inspiratie, fotomodel, editor si director artistica. Newton o caracteriza deseori :power to be", ea fiind accea care se pare ca l-a impulsionat permanent sa exploreze si sa depaseasca limitele; mai tarziu, June marturiseste: "a daramat toate tabuurile". Lucrarile lui Helmut Newton se intrevad in fotografiile unora ca Ellen von Unwerth, Deborah Turbeville, David Bailey, Mario Testino, Steven Klein, sau Herb Ritts, iar ideile sale estetice razbat in filmele regizorilor Stanley Kubrick, Brian De Palma sau Roman Polanski.

 



 



 



Lucrari publicate:

White Women / Femmes secretes New York: Congreve, 1976, London: Quartet Books, 1976, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1976, Paris: Robert Laffont 1976

Sleepless Nights / Nuits blanches, New York: Congreve, 1978, London: Quartet Books, 1978, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1978, Paris: Filipacchi, 1978

24 Photos Lithos - Special Collection, New York: Congreve, 1979, London: Quartet Books, 1979, Munhen: Rogner & Bernhard, 1980, Paris: Filipacchi, 1980

Big Nudes - 47 Nudes, Paris: Editions du Regard, 1981, London: Thames & Hudson 1981, New York: Xavier Moreau, 1984, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1987

Helmut Newton, Paris: Editions du Regard, 1981

Double Elephant Portfolio, Portfolio with 15 original photographs, limited edition of 50, New York: Double Elephant Press 1981

Helmut Newton - Mode et Portraits, Paris: Musee d'Art Moderne, 1984

World Without Men, New York: Xavier Moreau, 1984, Paris: Filipacchi, 1984, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1984

Private Property (Series I, II and III), Portfolio with 45 original photographs, limited edition of 75, New York: Schirmer Visual Library, 1984

Helmut Newton, Paris: Photo-Poche, Centre National de La Photographie, 1986, Heidelberg: Edition Braus, 2006

Portretten/Portraits, Amsterdam: Stichting Foto, 1986

Helmut Newton - Portraits, New York: Pantheon, 1986, Paris: Edition Fernand-Nathan, 1986, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1987, London: Quartet Books, 1987

Helmut Newton's Illustrated No 1 (Sex and Power), New York: Xavier Moreau, 1987

Helmut Newton's Illustrated No 2 (Pictures from an Exhibition), Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1987

Helmut Newton - Nouvelles Images / New Images / Nuevas Imagenes, Paris: Paris Audiovisuel 1988, Bologna: Galleria d'Arte Moderna/Grafis Edizioni, 1989, Madrid: Fundación Caja de Pensiones, 1989

Portraits, London: National Portrait Gallery, 1988, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1988, Tokyo: Metropolitan Teien Art Museum, 1989

Helmut Newton in Moscow - The Photographic Work, Moscow: Puschkin Museum, 1989

Helmut Newton - Private Property, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1989

Das Glas im Kopf wird vom Glas, Gent: Imschoot, 1990

Helmut Newton's Illustrated No 3 (I was there), Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1991

Archives de Nuit, Paris: Hazan Editions, 1992, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1993

VIP/Very Important Portraits, Milan: Photology, 1992

Helmut Newton - Pola Woman, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1992

Naked & Dressed in Hollywood, Los Angeles: Pascal de Sarthe Gallery, 1992

Eroticism in the 20th Century, Tokyo: Goro Kuramochi, 1992

Helmut Newton. Aus dem photografischen Werk, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1993

Vanites, Paris: Centre Nationale de la Photographie, 1993

Regard d'artistes sur la Femme, Paris: Hotel de la Monnaie, 1993

Immorale, Tokyo: Kodansha, 1993

Mes Derniers Nus, Paris: Robert Vallois Gallery, 1994

Photography, Tokyo: Odakyu Museum/Goro Kuramochi, 1995

Helmut Newton's Illustrated No 4, Dr. Phantasme, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1996

The Best of Helmut Newton Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1996

72 ore a Roma, Rome: Peliti, 1998

Pages from the Glossies, Zurich: Scalo, 1998

Us and Them (Helmut Newton and Alice Springs), Zurich: Scalo, 1998

Anton Josef Trcka - Edward Weston - Helmut Newton, Die Künstlichkeit des Wirklichen / The Artificial of the Real, Zurich: Scalo, 1998

Helmut Newton's Sumo, Cologne: Taschen, 1999

Helmut Newton's Illustrated No. 1 - No. 4, Complete Edition, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 2000

Helmut Newton - Work, Berlin: Taschen, 2000, Tokyo: Kodansha, 1983

Sex & Landscapes, Zurich: De Pury & Luxembourg, 2001, Salzburg: Rupertinum, 2002 Cologne: Taschen, 2004

Helmut Newton Autobiography, Munich: C. Bertelsmann, 2002, New York: Random House, Doubleday, 2003, London: Duckworth, 2003, Tokyo: Ed. Treville, 2003 Madrid: Editorial RM, 2003, Mosccow: Eksmo, 2003, Rome: Contrasto, 2003, Corea: Eulyoo Publishing, 2003, Bratislava: Slovart Publishing, 2003, Paris: Robert Laffont, 2004, Warsaw: Wydawnictwo, 2005,Yellow Press, Zurich: De Pury & Luxembourg, 2002

A Gun for Hire, London: Ivory Press, 2005, Cologne: Taschen, 2005

Pigozzi and the Paparazzi - With Salomon, Weegee, Galella, Angeli, Secchiaroli, Quinn and Newton, Berlin: Helmut Newton Foundation, 2008

Fired, Berlin: Helmut Newton Foundation, 2008

 


Expozitii:

1993 (Fashion photographs - Acquisitions of Paris Audiovisuel), Centre Culturel Francaise de Rome, Rome, Italy

1993 Helmut Newton aus dem photographischen Werk, Deichtorhallen Hamburg, Germany

1994 Helmut Newton aus dem photographischen Werk, Fotomuseum, Winterthur, Switzerland

1994 New Editions + Retrospective Prints, Gallery Sho Contemporary Art, Tokyo, Japan

1995 Archives de Nuit, Galerie Pierre Nouvion, Monte-Carlo, Monaco

1995 Helmut Newton - Photography, Odakyu Museum, Tokyo, Japan

1996 Fashion and Fantasy, A Gallery for Fine Photography, New Orleans, LA, USA

1996 Helmut Newton - Photography, Navio Museum, Japan

1997 Helmut Newton in Sweden, Hasselblad Foundation at the Goteborg Museum, Sweden

1997 Helmut Newton Photographien, Camera Work Gallery, Berlin, Germany

1998 Us and Them, Nikolay, Copenhagen Fotomuseet O dense, Copenhagen, Denmark

1998 Visa pour l'image 67 new portraits, Perpignan, France

1999 Architecture & Pornographie, Gastello die Rivoli, Turin, Italy

1999 Us and Them, Gallery Carla Sozzani, Milan, Italy

1999 Us and Them, Helmut Newton & Alice Springs. 50 Years together - Personal Photographs, Center for Contemporary Art, Stockholm, Sweden

1999 Us and Them, Kunsthalle, Rotterdam, Netherlands

1999 Us and Them, MEP, Paris, France

2000 Helmut Newton Work, Museum Ludwig, Kunsthalle, Cologne, Germany

2000 Helmut Newton Work, Museum of Modern Art, Sao Paulo, Brazil

2000 Helmut Newton Work, Neue Nationalgalerie, Berlin, Germany

2001 Helmut Newton Work, Barbican Centre, London, UK

2001 Helmut Newton Work, I.C.P, New York, NY, USA

2001 Sex & Landscapes, de Pury & Luxembourg, Zurich, Switzerland

2001 Sex & Landscapes, Mary Boone Gallery, New York, USA

2002 Helmut Newton Work, Kunsthalle Krems, Austria

2002 Helmut Newton Work, Photo Espana 2002, Madrid, Spain

2002 Sex & Landscapes, Galleria Gio Marconi, Milan, Italy

2002 Sex & Landscapes, Ludwig Museum, Budapest, Hungary

2002 Sex & Landscapes, Rupertinum Museum, Salzburg, Austria

2002 Yellow Press, de Pury & Luxembourg, Zurich, Switzerland

2003 Helmut Newton - Genuine Eyes, Gallery Sho Contemporary Art, Tokyo, Japan

2003 Neue Galerie Graz, Graz, Austria

2003 Sex & Landscapes / Yellow Press, ARKEN Museum for Moderne Kunst, Ishoj, Denmark

2003 Sex & Landscapes, Aydan Gallery, Moscow, Russia

2003 Sex & Landscapes, Gallery Joshua Mann Pailet, New Orleans, USA

2003 Sex & Landscapes, Schloss Bellevue, Berlin, Germany

2003 Yellow Press, Carla Sozzani Gallery, Milan, Italy

2004 Helmut Newton, Gagosian Gallery, Los Angeles, CA, USA

2004 Private Property, Permanent Museum at the Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin, Germany

2004 Sex & Landscapes / Yellow Press, Retretti Art Centre, Helsinki, Finland

2004 Us & Them / Sex & Landscapes, Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin

2005 A Gun for Hire, Grimaldi Forum, Monaco

2005 A Gun for Hire, Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin, Germany

2005 Sex & Landscapes, Kunsthalle der Hypo-Kulturstiftung, Munich, Germany

2006 Men, War & Peace, Newton, Nachtwey, LaChapelle at the Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin, Germany

2006 Sex & Landscapes, Palazzo Reale , Milan, Italy

2006 Yellow Press / Playboy Projections, Guest Artist: Veruschka Self-Portraits, Performed by Vera Lehndorff, Photographed by Andreas Hubertus Ilse, at the Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin, Germany

2007 Helmut Newton XL, Hamiltons Gallery, London, UK

2007 Wanted, Helmut Newton, Larry Clark, Ralph Gibson at the Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin, Germany

2009 A Gun for Hire, Fundacion Caixa Galicia, LA Coruna, Spain

 



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Emilian Ionescu - 06 Aug 2012, ora 14:46
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